Sunday, July 31, 2011

How To setup A Stainless Steel Backsplash In 7 Easy Steps

How To setup A Stainless Steel Backsplash In 7 Easy Steps


Ready to take on that Diy steel backsplash scheme you've been planning for a while now? Then now is the time to do it! Full of modern petition and functionality, installing a stainless steel backsplash can be done in just a few hours, at a minimal remodel cost. Before you order your materials you will need to make some measurements.

To do this, shut off the power to outlets around your sink, and take off any outlet covers or plates. Tape a large piece of paper against the wall behind your sink, and then cut the template down to the size you want your backsplash to be. Be sure to cut out holes for any outlets. Remember to cut very thought about and precisely, because this template will be used to institute the final stainless steel backsplash. Take your template to a sheet metal or home revising store, and order the product. You may want to take photos of the area it will be going in as well.

Sandpaper

When it comes in, derive the following materials:


• Tape, either masking or painters

• Caulking gun and waterproof caulk for kitchen use

• A putty knife

• building glue or other adhesive

• 80 grit sandpaper

• Rubbing alcohol

Step 1:

Use sandpaper on the wall where the backsplash will be placed, to originate a good face for adhesive to stick to.

Step 2:

Run a bead of building glue along the back side of the backsplash, and use the putty knife to spread the glue evenly.

Step 3:

Position the backsplash close to the wall. Start at one end and thought about level the steel against the wall, using either the side of your hand or a flat tool such as a spatula.

Step 4:

Tape the backsplash in place until the adhesive has dried fully.

Step 5:

Remove the tape, as well as any adhesive from around the edges. You can do this with rubbing alcohol.

Step 6:

Run a bead of waterproof caulking along the edges of the backsplash, and either leave them as beads, or level them into place with your finger. Let the caulking dry thoroughly before using the sink.

Step 7:

Use any decorative ideas you've gathered for making it personal. For example, you might want to make it a gallery for displaying magnets.

I hope this has given you some helpful tips to find and setup a stainless steel backsplash yourself. At the end of the day it will be a great option as it is so easy to clean and maintain, and looks incredibly popular ,favorite as well.

How To setup A Stainless Steel Backsplash In 7 Easy Steps


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Saturday, July 30, 2011

How to Patch a Drywall Hole

How to Patch a Drywall Hole


It may sound funny, but you may end up with holes in your drywall by simply hammering a nail with too much sense of accountability and determination. Drywall is made of gypsum and paper, so it does make sense for this to happen. A while ago, repairing this would have asked for removing a section of wallboard between two studs. Now there are solutions that make the qoute simpler to fix, like using mesh patches to cover small diameter holes. A patch has a sticky back that will cleave to the surrounding exterior and its size can be up to 8 square inches.

These are the items you will use to fix the hole: an utility knife, sanding block, a mesh wall patch that is about 2 times the area of the hole, joint compound, tray that will hold it, a 4" or wider putty knife and a sponge.

Sandpaper

Since a lot of dust may be raised, cover the floor and the surrounding area with newspaper before you start the job. The exterior where the patch will be located needs special preparation: cut any hanging bits with the utility knife and sand the edges with sandpaper or sanding block. Be meticulous not to make the hole bigger while this procedure. The mesh patch is covered with backing paper that you will peel off before centering the patch over the hole. After centering it, flat the edges. Put the joint mixture in the tray and then apply it over the patch and beyond its borders, using the putty knife. You will use the tray instead of getting the mixture right out of its holder so that you don't allow the whole quantity to dry while keeping the lid off while work. You will then flat the mixture with moves from top to bottom and from one projection to another. It will take about 8 hours for the mixture to dry. Sand the dried exterior with sandpaper, 80-100 grit. sponge the area to wipe the dust off. A second coat of mixture will be applied and smoothed. After it is dry, sand the area with a fine sandpaper, 120-150 grit. Clean up and then prime and paint to close the job and obtain a nice looking wall.


How to Patch a Drywall Hole


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Friday, July 29, 2011

Cleaning and Restoring Yellowed, Hazy Headlight Lenses

Cleaning and Restoring Yellowed, Hazy Headlight Lenses


Are your car's headlights yellowed, cloudy or scratched? You're not alone. Unless you give your car's plastic headlight lenses regular care, in 24 months or less they can deteriorate to the point of being thoroughly opaque, production it very dangerous to operate your car at night and in reduced visibility conditions. The clarification is easier than you might think. The good news is that you can restore this dangerous and unsightly qoute in about 20 minutes. It's easy once you know how.

Why Do Headlights come to be Yellow and Dull?

Sandpaper

The qoute is not caused by abuse or neglect, as you might think. It is an environmental problem. Without regular maintenance, Uv rays from the sun, acid rain, salt and road debris degrade and discolor all clear plastics, along with lens covers. If your car has halogen or someone else type of high-intensity discharge (Hid) headlamp, the qoute can be worse. These sealed beam units operate at high temperatures, additional contributing to degradation and yellowing.


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What Is The Solution?

The clarification is an easy restoration process. Headlight restoration is a plastic fix process that removes outside damage and restores clarity to the lenses. Even severe cases of yellowing, hazing, and scratches can be fixed in less than 30 minutes.

You might be wondering why fix instead of replace? Your headlights are a sealed unit, so you can't just replace the outer cover. If you have an expensive car with high-performance lighting, replacement is very expensive. restoration versus replacement can save you 0 to 0 per lens, so it's well worth the effort. Plus, it's easy!

What kind of results can you expect? It may look hopeless, but most likely the damage is superficial. Even if your light covers are thoroughly opaque, they can be restored. As long as the plastic has not yellowed all the way though, you have a very good occasion of full restoration.

Try A Low abrasive Polish First

If the damage is slight, you may be able to fix it with a straightforward plastic polish like Meguiar's PlastX. I recommend trying this method first. It won't be wasted effort or expense, either, because you need to use the polish usually to profess your lighting.

Note: Never use a household glass cleaning goods like Windex on clear plastic. Household glass cleaners comprise ammonia, which causes clear plastic to yellow.

If the polish alone does not work, then you need to remove the damage with a very fine sand paper (2000 grit is very safe) and re-polish to restore a clear finish. While it may sound scary or complicated, it's not. Wet sanding is quick and easy.

Tip: You can test to see if your headlights will write back to hand polishing with a small dab of tartar operate toothpaste. Toothpaste is slightly abrasive. If the small test area vastly improves, then you know polish alone may be all you need.

Sandpaper & Re-polish Procedure

To clean away the damage with wet sanding and re-polish, you need the following supplies:

Polishing towels Bucket of soapy water Latex gloves (if you have sensitive skin) Painter's masking tape (1" to 1.5" width is best) Plastic polish Wet/dry sand paper (600, 1200, 2000 grit) Sanding block (1" x 2" erasure works great) 2.5" Velcro backing plate for use with 3/8" drill or cordless drill 3" foam or wool polishing pad with Velcro backing

Here are the precise steps for restoring plastic headlight lenses:

Step 1: Clean the headlight lenses. A pail of soapy water works best. Clean the surrounding area, too. Dry thoroughly.

Step 2: Use painter's masking tape to mask around the headlight. This will help safe your car's paint finish. This only takes a combine minutes, so don't skip this leading step.

Step 3: Wet sand each headlight. First conclude the amount of damage to each lens. If your headlight lenses are scratched or if they are thoroughly opaque, you will need to start with 600 grit sandpaper. Sand thoroughly, and then develop to 1200, then 2000 grit.

If your lenses have no scratches and are only slightly opaque, you can probably get away with using 2000 grit paper only. The first sanding step is where you will in fact remove the scratched and cloudy layer of plastic. The finer grades of sandpaper are to remove the scratches left from the former grit sandpaper.

As you sand, your sanding water will turn milky. This is the damaged layer being removed. Use plentifulness of water for lubrication and to keep the sandpaper clean. Keep sanding until the outside feels perfectly smooth. The drippings will come to be clearer as the damage is taken away. Dry thoroughly between sanding steps to check progress.

Step 4: Re-glaze headlight lenses using plastic polish on a 3" polishing pad (foam or wool). First join together the Velcro backing plate adapter to your drill.

Apply several dabs of polish to the pad and begin polishing the lens. As the polish begins to dissipate, add a limited more and continue polishing. Stop polishing once the lens is thoroughly clear again. Close with a final hand polish using a small amount of polish on a microfiber towel or applicator.

Step 5: Wax or seal to protect. Use a good car wax to reseal the plastic and safe from the elements.

Step 6: profess monthly with a potential plastic cleaner/polish. The products I recommend most are Plexus and Meguiar's PlastX. If polished regularly, your car's clear plastic lenses will never need restoring again!

Cleaning and Restoring Yellowed, Hazy Headlight Lenses


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Thursday, July 28, 2011

How To Paint Guitars

How To Paint Guitars


Whether you are finding to paint an galvanic guitar or acoustic guitar, there are many things to put in order for and reconsider before you start. How to paint guitars is not as easy as painting a house, yet not as intricate as painting the Mona Lisa. The art of painting guitars is to know how to balance painting the Mona Lisa and a house (not necessarily Mona's house), basically it's somewhere in between. Nonetheless, it's an art in its own right.

You will start off by taking some precautionary measures: get yourself a muzzle-mask and goggles. You will be doing a lot of sandpapering and if you are sanding an old guitar the dust from the sandpapered acyclic is very perilous to your health. So, the first thing on your how to paint guitars list must be: Precaution.

Sandpaper

Then you will move on to materials. While you are out getting the mask and goggles be sure to get the following: Sandpaper (fine, medium and course) a set of screw drivers, white spirit (not to drink), newspaper to cover tabletops and things you don't want to get all dusty, wood primer, paint color of your choice and some finishing lacquer, cloths for wiping down and brushing off the guitar, garage work covering and a well aired space (let's hope you have some good weather to work outside.) Again take precaution if you are using power tools and electrical appliances that you don't know how to use, either don't use them or get some one not as dumb as you (when it comes to power tools that it is). And that is your basic how to paint guitars list.


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So, you have two guitars lying in front of you and you are staring at all the material you've just purchased, but you still don't know how to paint guitars.

Step one: Put on the mask and goggles and remember that there are no mistakes here only learn-as-you-go opportunities. Besides, if you mess up big time you can all the time sand it down again (let's hope you bought sufficient sand paper), though be smart sufficient to stop sanding when you're left with a toothpick in your hand. If you are still unsure, speak to a few friends to get their opinions, and ask around in your neighborhood. You are sure to find person that knows how to paint guitars.

The second step of your scheme is to dismantle your guitar (if you have more than one, I suggest one at a time) and place all screws, nuts, and other pieces in such a place that you will be able to find them later on. As this is quite a long process, do your scheme in a place where it will not be disturbed by anyone but you. After all the heavy work of scraping and cleaning we get to the best part ... Painting your very own Mona Lisa.

Now, there are millions of ways to paint your guitar - the only limit is your imagination. Once you get past the sanding, there is no doubt that you now know how to paint guitars. For some manufacture ideas take a peek on the web, look at comic books, dream about it, think about it and most prominent of all, just do it and have fun. So, go ahead ... Paint a guitar for each member of your family.

How To Paint Guitars


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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Makita 742137-A-50 5-Inch 40-Grit Hook and Loop Abrasive Disc, 50-Pack

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Review on Makita 742137-A-50 5-Inch 40-Grit Hook and Loop Abrasive Disc, 50-Pack


"MAKITA" HOOK AND LOOP SANDING DISCGrit- 40 Disc Size- 5" 50 Quantity in a pack 8 hole Abrasive discs Hook and loop backing and pre-punched holes For models 9501 BZ/BKW and 9514B sander/grinders For model BO5000 random-orbit sander


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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

3M SandBlaster 9681 4-1/2-Inch Coarse Clean-N-Strip Disc

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Review on 3M SandBlaster 9681 4-1/2-Inch Coarse Clean-N-Strip Disc

Sandblaster, 4.5", Right Angle Grinder Clean & Strip Disc, Fits 4.5" & 5" Angle Grinders,4.5" Requires Quick Loading Adapter Model #9675, Use On Many Surfaces, Including Metal, Wood, & Fiberglass, Great For Removing & Cleaning Rust, Paint, & Many Other Coatings, Open Web Design Results In Controlled Abrasive Action That Helps Prevent Surface Distortion Or Gouging, Allows For Fast Coating Removal While Also Leaving A Clean & Smooth Surface Finish, Long Lasting, Use Until All Of The Purple Abrasive Is Gone.

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Monday, July 25, 2011

Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander)

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Review on Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander)

Prevent damage to your disc holder with the Porter-Cable 13904 5-inch hook-and-loop pad, the standard replacement pad for the Porter-Cable 333 random orbit sander. Enjoy the convenience of the five-hole dust collection feature and easy screw-on installation using the screws of your sander. The hook-and-loop pad accommodates 5-inch hook-and-loop discs and is sold individually.

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Sunday, July 24, 2011

Black & Decker MS2000 Multi Sander with Smart Select

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Review on Black & Decker MS2000 Multi Sander with Smart Select

Includes Complete 4-in-1 Sander Kit - MS2000, (2) Interchangeable Sanding Bases, Finger Detail Attachment, Assorted Sheets of Sandpaper, Storage Bag

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Saturday, July 23, 2011

selecting the Right Grit of Sandpaper

selecting the Right Grit of Sandpaper


Using the right sandpaper is the key to a victorious project. The right sandpaper can make a job faster and easier. Soft plastic and metal are vulnerable to permanent damage if the wrong sandpaper is used.

Sandpaper is made by binding an grinder material to a paper or cloth backing. Sandpaper comes in sheets, rolls, bands and disks. Sandpaper intended for use with power tools commonly has a heavier backing than hand-use sandpaper.

Sandpaper

A Strong Foundation


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The material used to hold grinder grit is called the backing. Several types of backing are available, each with its own qualities.

Paper is the most base backing material for sandpaper. Sandpaper with a stiff paper backing is good for large, flat areas or for use with power tools. Sandpaper with a more flexible paper backing is best for curved or textured surfaces.

Waterproof backing is used for wet/dry applications. A waterproof adhesive keeps the grinder material attached to the backing when wet sanding or using a lubricant.

Cloth backing is used to originate extremely flexible sandpaper. Cloth backed sandpaper is best for use with extremely contoured or detailed surfaces.

True Grit

The level of sandpaper's abrasiveness is referred to as its "grit". The grade of grit is commonly printed on the backing of sandpaper using the following scale:

40-60 Coarse

80-100 Medium Coarse

120-150 Medium

180-200 Fine

240 Very Fine

Sandpapers graded above 600 grit are useful for discontinue sanding on soft surfaces.

But What's It Made Of?

The grinder material used to make sandpaper is made of finely crushed minerals. Dissimilar minerals are used to sand Dissimilar materials.

Glass grit sandpaper uses quartz crystals for its abrasive. Glass grit sandpaper is soft and works well with painted surfaces.

Garnet grit is reddish in color and is the most base sandpaper abrasive. Garnet grit sandpaper works well on a wide range of materials.

Aluminum oxide grit sandpaper last longer than glass or garnet sandpapers. It is typically used for sanding metal surfaces and with power sanders.

Silicon carbide grit sandpaper can be used for wet and dry sanding. Silicon carbide sand paper can be used with hardwood, plastic and metal surfaces. This sandpaper is also great for smoothing glass edges.

selecting the Right Grit of Sandpaper


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Friday, July 22, 2011

Bosch SR6R000 6-Inch Hook & Loop Sanding Disc, 6-Hole, Red, 60/120/240 Assorted Grits, 6 Pack

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Review on Bosch SR6R000 6-Inch Hook & Loop Sanding Disc, 6-Hole, Red, 60/120/240 Assorted Grits, 6 Pack

Perfect for multi-purpose sanding projects with hard woods such as oak and pine or building boards like plywood. Industrial strength, this paper provides users with the highest quality aluminum oxide grit and resin bonding agent. Bosch sanding discs are cleanly pre-punched with 6 or 8 holes for uniform dust extraction through the pad without creating unwanted swirl marks or scratches on the work surface.

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Thursday, July 21, 2011

Bosch 1250DEVS 6-1/2-Amp 6-Inch Random Orbit Sander with Vacuum Port

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Review on Bosch 1250DEVS 6-1/2-Amp 6-Inch Random Orbit Sander with Vacuum Port

The 1250DEVS multiple-purpose sander from Bosch has two sanding modes: random orbit mode for normal stock removal or fine finishing, and an aggressive -InchTurbo-Inch drive eccentric orbit mode that operates at five times the regular rate, in order to remove rougher stock. Its simple sanding mode selector switch quickly changes back and forth between the two modes, as your projects require it -- and the powerful 6.5 amp variable speed motor (3,100 to 6,650 opm) matches the tool's speed to the task, for a smooth result on all surfaces. This model is crammed with great convenience and power features, including a soft start function that tones down the start-up torque and a variable speed dial that makes it extra easy to match your working speed to the project. It also has Constant Response circuitry that maintains the pad speed under heavy loads while simultaneously protecting against overloads, and an integral pad dampening system to help prevent swirl marks -- plus a passive dust collection system (vacuum and hoses required, available by Bosch). The 1250DEVS uses 6-hole, 6-inch hook-and-loop discs. This kit includes a dust tube, soft backing pad, a left or right-hand auxiliary handle, one sanding disc, and a pad wrench (5mm) that stores on-board.

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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Black & Decker 74-580 Mouse Sanding/Polishing Kit

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Review on Black & Decker 74-580 Mouse Sanding/Polishing Kit

"BLACK & DECKER" MOUSE SANDING & POLISHING KITIncludes 2 #0T Polishing Wool 2 180 Grit, 2 220 Grit One 5 Finger 180 2 Foam Pads Bagged.

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Monday, July 18, 2011

Know Your Sandpaper For the Best Wood Finishing

Know Your Sandpaper For the Best Wood Finishing


There are many different sizes of sandpaper you can use for different purposes in wood finishing. Many sizes of grit are used in manufacturing sandpaper, ranging from 8/0 to 4, as follows:

o Very five or soft papers, used by wood-finishers from 00000000, or 8/0, to 00, or 2/0

Sandpaper

o Medium sizes, ordinarily used by woodworkers: 0, or 1/0, 1/2, 1, 1%, 2

o Very common papers, more ordinarily used on sanding machines for rapid cutting: 2 ½, 3, 3 ½, 4

Sizes finer than 8/0 sandpaper are made by some manufacturers, but are not ordinarily found on the market. Unfortunately, the sizes of sandpaper are not well standardized, and one manufacturer's sizes may not correspond exactly with those of another. Similar to an architect's or contractor's unique tape measures, no steel tape quantum is going to be exactly like it's steel tape quantum counterpart.

The cardinal principle in the use of sandpaper is that all sanding must be with the grain. Never make circular, cross grain, nor oblique strokes with sandpaper, as scratches always result. The end grain of wood must be sanded crosswise.

A meticulous study of wood structure with a magnifier shows that the fibers are arranged like parallel tubes lengthwise of the grain. These fibers are scratched, torn, or cut thru by the sharp edges of the sand grit if the strokes are in any other direction than lengthwise of the grain.

Resanding with the grain in the permissible way will not well take off scratches. Such injuries should be scraped out, and after all scratches have disappeared, the outside should be sanded, pushing the sandpaper lengthwise of the grain of the wood with the acceptable tools, either they are precision measurements tools or specific sanding tools.

Blocks for holding sandpaper in order that greater pressure may be applied are used in every finishing room. The size, weight, and outside for the blocks depend upon the kind of work being done. For big surfaces a rather large heavy block has some advantages. A brick covered with canvas or other cloth is used in some shops for common work, especially where rapid cutting on large surfaces is desired.

For the first sanding with common sandpaper some workmen prefer a hard flat block with small or no covering. Sandpaper over a hard block without covering, or with small covering, will cut off the .high spots good and help to sacrifice the somewhat irregular outside to a truer, leveler, or plane surface.

A beloved size of sandpaper for use on many kinds of wood for the first sanding is No. 1 or 1.5. For the finer-grained woods you should use the No. 1, which is finer than No. 1.5. The second sanding with finer paper can best be done with a soft block or a block with a soft cover. Some prefer to use corks about 1" x 3" x 6" in size. an additional one size sold on the market for such work is 1"x 4" x 4".

Felt-faced or cloth covered blackboard erasers can be used very satisfactorily for sanding-blocks. Some finishers use rubber faced blocks. A home-made block of this kind can be prepared from a rectangular scrap of soft wood to which you tack a piece of rubber taken from an automobile inner tube. The sizes of sandpaper used for fine sanding are about 1/2 or 0. Sometimes 00 papers are preferable for very fine-grained hardwood.

Rounding off the corners of a piece of wood in sanding is a very common fault that you must avoid or you will ruin the appearance of the ended work. This does not mean that the sharp feathered edges or arrises should not be slightly smoothed off to get rid of slivers, for this should always be done with fine sandpaper in the final sanding. Unless you take care to avoid a rocking motion while sanding, the corners and edges will come to be rounded off unevenly and unsightly disfigured work will be the result.

End grain sanding is just as foremost as sanding of the surfaces and edges. If the end grain is left too rough, supplementary stain will be absorbed there; consequently it will come to be darker than other portions of the outside regardless of pocket tape measures, logger tape measures, or any other unique tape measures used to try and avoid this.

Curved surfaces can be sanded to best advantage with split sandpaper. Duplicate coated paper for splitting is widely available. The split sandpaper is most effective for some kinds of work when dampened or moistened on the back. Water, benzine, and turpentine, or turpentine substitutes, are used for moistening sandpaper either to keep down dust or to make the paper more pliable.

Know Your Sandpaper For the Best Wood Finishing


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Sunday, July 17, 2011

Bosch 1294VSK 2.3 Amp Corner Detail Sander Kit

Review Bosch 1294VSK 2.3 Amp Corner Detail Sander Kit

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Product Feature

  • 2.3 amps and 13,000 to 19,000 OPM ensures fast, smooth results on all surfaces
  • True finishing sander motion with no arcing or pivoting; tool-free pad changes
  • Ergonomic soft-grip top designed for comfort
  • Includes 20 sanding sheets, polishing pad, extension plate, 2 narrow extensions (flat/oval), plastic case
  • 2.4-pounds; 1-year warranty

Product Overview

Designed for tradesmen and serious woodworkers, this sturdy detail sander kit features Bosch’s revolutionary micro-filter dust canister for cleaner material, happier sanding, and healthier lungs. A true random orbit finishing motion--not an arc or pivot-- delivers precise, even finishing in corners and tight spaces with no swirls. An ergonomic soft-grip handle and low-vibration design ensures smooth running and optimal comfort. A three-position pad extends paper and pad life for fewer changes and less downtime. Vibrating at 13,000 to 19,000 orbits per minute, this double-insulated sander ensures fast, smooth results on all surfaces. Great for reconditioning trim without making a mess of the drywall, the sander comes with an array of sheet extenders for easily reaching into fine groove details, nooks, and contours for clean, smooth surfaces ready for paint or stain. A handy dial selection lets you choose 6 different speeds for sanding a wide variety of materials. Unlike many sanding pads that wear unevenly, rendering sheets useless when most of the grit is still there, this detail sander’s triangular pads turn a full 120 degrees to utilize the whole sheet. Hook-and-loop attachment makes it easy to attach and detach grits through each stage of the sanding process without ruining sheets. The purchase is covered by a Bosch, limited 1-year warranty. What’s in the Box
20 sanding sheets, polishing pad, extension plate, 2 narrow extensions (flat/oval), plastic case

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Saturday, July 16, 2011

DELTA 31-423 12-Inch 120 Grit Sanding Disc (2-Pack)

Review DELTA 31-423 12-Inch 120 Grit Sanding Disc (2-Pack)

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Product Feature

  • 12-inch adhesive backed sandpaper disc offer quick and easy installation
  • Designed for use with DELTA 31-120, 31-280, 31-730, and other sanders that need 12-inch adhesive-backed discs
  • Aluminum oxide abrasive for long lasting and effective sanding
  • 120 grit leaves a finer finish
  • Two discs included

Product Overview

The DELTA 31-423 12-inch 120 Grit Sanding Disc feature an aluminum oxide abrasive for effective, long lasting sanding. This disc fits the DELTA 31-120, 31-280, and 31-730 sanders, as well as others that require 12-inch adhesive-backed discs. This pack includes two discs.

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Friday, July 15, 2011

Polishing handcrafted Silver Jewelry - Using Sandpaper To Polish Your Jewelry

Polishing handcrafted Silver Jewelry - Using Sandpaper To Polish Your Jewelry


Once you have made your silver item there are many ways to polish your piece depending on the type of end you want to achieve. But generally, the best way to perform a long-lasting, pro look is to polish your piece using sandpaper which you can authentically buy from your local hardware store.

You will need to buy separate grades of sandpaper buying one sheet in each grade. The lower the grade number, the rougher the sandpaper is with the higher grade numbers over 1000 being very smooth.

Sandpaper

Start with a lower grade of sandpaper and move your way up straight through the grades.

A guide for the grades to use would be:

1.    240 [start]
2.    360
3.    400
4.    600
5.    1200 [Finish]

Before starting to polish your silver piece, put on a pair of cheap cotton gloves to preclude body oils contaminating the surfaces you will be polishing.

Starting off with the 240 grade sandpaper will help to get the surface even and eliminate scratches. It is authentically important that you polish the piece of silver with the sandpaper in one direction to make the surface tidy and smooth.

Each time you convert your sandpaper to the next grade you need to convert the direction that you are polishing in. This helps get rid of scratch marks more effectively and will give you a much good finish.

So if, for example, you are polishing a pendant, start polishing from left to right with the 240 grade sandpaper. Then polish from top to lowest with the 360 grade etc. Don't forget to do the back and sides of your piece as well to end the item professionally.

Just using a piece of sandpaper on its own can be quite awkward and it can be difficult to evenly rub the piece of silver over the whole surface. But here is a great tip you can succeed to get nearby this problem.

Find a right piece of wood that is about 30cm long by 4cm wide and 1cm thick. Place a sheet of sandpaper face down on a flat surface with the long edge of your stick flush with the edge of your sandpaper. Score the back of the sandpaper along the other edge of the stick. succeed this process to wrap the sandpaper nearby the stick about 4 times.

Without unwrapping the sandpaper, tape the ends of the sandpaper with something like parcel tape manufacture sure the tape has a surface you can write on. Make sure you do not tape onto the stick. Take off the stick and then repeat for the other grades of sandpaper you have bought. Write the grade of the sandpaper on the tape at each end and do this with all of your grades.

When you are terminated you will now have made sanding sleeves that can authentically be slipped on and off of your stick as you move straight through the grades. As the sandpaper becomes worn, naturally peel back and tear off that surface leaving the end tapes intact which will expose the fresh layer of sandpaper underneath.

You can also succeed a similar technique with a flat lollipop stick to make a smaller version to polish the more difficult areas of your silver and get a breathtaking finish.

Polishing handcrafted Silver Jewelry - Using Sandpaper To Polish Your Jewelry


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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Woodturning - understanding Sandpaper

Woodturning - understanding Sandpaper


Woodturners use sandpaper to bring the outside of a turned piece into shaper for final finishing. In some cases a very fine sandpaper may be used to faultless the end itself, particularly if a lacquer end has been applied. It helps to understand what sandpaper is in order to use it well.

Sandpaper has been used for outside establishment at least since the thirteenth century when the Chinese recorded that varied materials had been glued to parchment using natural adhesives so as to refine the surfaces of prepared objects. Some citizen had already used the natural polisher qualities of clear plants as well rough shark skin in the same fashion. Today it belongs to a house of coated abrasives which consist of varied materials such as aluminum oxide bonded to materials like paper or cloth.

Sandpaper

Sand and glass were the earliest materials to be used for this purpose, thus leaving glasspaper and sandpaper as generic names for the abrasives even though glass or sand are seldom used today except on the cheapest of products. Woodturners and other woodworkers should avoid them at all costs. Buying them is false economy.

Most woodturners will use sandpaper with a paper backing although mylar is often used for very high grits. take a paper that allows for in effect contouring to the curves of a turned object. The finer grits above three or four hundred will ordinarily have a very flexible mylar backing and waterproof resins that allow for wet or dry sanding although woodturners will ordinarily be sanding dry.

While there are a variety of materials used for sanding, woodturners and for that matter woodworkers of all types ordinarily use only three. Garnet is a favourite of woodworkers and is often used in grits up to three hundred. Aluminum oxide tends to be more costly but last longer under high heat conditions which may sometimes be found in finishing woodturnings and is often found up to four hundred grit. Silicon carbide is also long persisting but again more costly and woodturners ordinarily use it for grits six hundred and above. Most of the time it is found in wet or dry paper and is often purchased from auto supply shop where it is sold for sanding end coats of lacquer.

Grits leave a best outside the higher the amount but it makes no sense to start with too high a grit as it takes a long time to sand out any irregularities and scratches in the starting surface. Coarse grits have a lower amount and remove material faster but leave scratches that must be removed with the next higher grit leaving smaller scratches and so on.

Regardless of the material found in the sandpaper, a proper sanding job will leave a outside that a good end will make shine. However, that end is only as good as the outside it goes on. Taking time to understand and use sandpaper well will give a woodturner a scheme to be proud of.

Woodturning - understanding Sandpaper


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